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August 29th, 2007 - New Jersey Exhausted at the airport ... and not ready for my closeup A cloche is essentially the only type of hat I like - and I've had this one for years.
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Do you tan using either the sun or tanning beds? Stop immediately - it isn't that sunbeds are just as bad as tanning in the real sun. They're worse! UVA (aging) & UVB (burning) rays damage the DNA in the skin surface cells and contribute to skin cancer - and UVA rays damage even more deeply, damaging the layer under the skin surface, where damage to precious collagen and elastin can occur, leading ultimately to loss of elasticity of the skin. (Read: facial sagging.)
As you can tell from all other parts of this website, I don't mince words, so I'll lay it on the line here: Ever notice the often leathery, frighteningly wrinkled faces of the 20-something workers behind the counters of many tanning salons? Consider UVA rays responsible for this - and to add insult to injury, UVA rays notoriously contribute to melanoma. Think you're not getting damage as long as you don't burn? Any tanning of the skin, by its very virtue, is skin damage - no matter what the high school students behind the counter at tanning salons try to tell you.
But aren't I tan in some of my photos? Well, I'm naturally quite fair, but just love how I feel when I have some color, so I get bronzed the UV-free way in the summertime. Mystic Tan is a great spray tan, which I have been doing since the late '90's - and it's come a long way in both the process and the color result since its inception!
My tips for Mystic Tan? Exfoliate thoroughly (and also shave for even better results) the entire body from head to toe not merely the day of your Mystic, but 2-3 days in a row beforehand. This will lessen chances of unevenness, and will enhance your tanning results, giving you a beautifully seamless color. Right before stepping in the booth, saturate hands/heels of palms & feet with lotion, rubbing in completely so it will not function as a barrier cream. Use barrier cream you don't rub in on palms & fingernails only, and make sure the heels of your palms are not "globbed" with it as to avoid an obvious line of demarcation. Add a bit of lotion to the elbows, Achilles tendons, & knees as well, rubbing in completely, before stepping in the booth. When I do Mystic, I never get anything darker than the lightest Level 1, and ask for "no bronzer" since I'm just going home anyway! Tip: Don't let yourself get wet for at least 8 hours; wash only hands with soap and water, and moisturize feet with ordinary lotion about 2 hours after your spray-on tan. This keeps your hands and feet from getting too dark. I like my feet to match my face!
You'll wake up the next morning with a gorgeous tan - but with no repercussions from UVA damage. The best of both worlds!
SELF-TANNERS I RECOMMEND I have a spray-on tan every 2 weeks in the summer months. To keep myself tan in between these sessions, my favorite body self-tanner is Coppertone Endless Summer Foam - with no tint/color indicator, as well as L'Oreal Sublime Glow, Moisturizing MicroFine Mist for back & stomach. Why do I do it this way? Given that I'm far from an expert when it comes to application at home, doing a spray-on tan first provides a fail-safe, even "base." Gradual tanners aren't for me, & I've tried starting from scratch by applying self- tanners - even those meant for light complexions - on my fair skin. It isn't pretty. I could never get it right, so I don't try to! Starting off with a spray-on makes the entire process stress-free & fool-proof. Note: I use latex gloves for body application, and reapply every 3-4 nights. Once the color begins looking a bit imperfect, I either let it fade on its own, or sit in a bath for 30 minutes 2 nights in a row to lift the tan, then loofah all over to start the process all over again. For the face: Lotions/gels are my preference for the chest, neck, and face, and I adore the clear L'Oréal Sublime Bronze Gel.
SMOKING, DRINKING Smoking and drinking are personal choices - but know that they can wreak havoc on your skin. As if yellowed teeth and bad breath weren't enough, smoking damages skin cells by depriving them of oxygen (read: WRINKLES). With excessive drinking comes the semipermanent flush on the face, puffiness in the skin, bloodshot eyes, and more. So ... are you ready for your close-up? On a more personal note: people who do not know me too well might wonder to themselves if I choose not to drink because of religious reasons, permanent pregnancy, maybe I have an early morning, or because I'm "recovering." The boring truth is that I've simply always lacked a taste for alcohol - and for the reasons cited above, certainly lack the inclination to push an acquired taste for it.
SUNSCREEN If you make the choice not to tan, congratulations! But that's only half the battle since it isn't necessary for one to lay out by the pool or at the beach for the skin to endure sun damage - and this is where incidental sun exposure comes into play. Frankly, your skin cares not where you are, so never leave your house without sunscreen! In fact, you can experience sun damage by sunlight creeping in through the blinds of your windows. A good rule of thumb: if there's enough sun inside to read without a lamp, there's enough sun to damage.
On that note, keep in mind that you need BROAD-SPECTRUM protection. A high SPF (I use one all over the body, every single day by Vichy, La Roche-Posay Anthélios, Avène, Bioderma, or Ombrelle - the latter a Canadian L'Oréal brand) is one of two components to look for when considering a particular brand - the other being, most importantly, the proper active ingredients. Simply looking for a high SPF on a sunscreen is not sufficient, as this only refers to UVB (or burn) protection; however, keep in mind that you do not have to go high-end in order to get a high-quality sunscreen. I never do! I get all of my sunscreens from pharmacies (drugstores). Again, an excellent sunscreen is all about its Sun Protection Factor (SPF), and especially its active ingredients. So, which active ingredients to look for?
Below are the 3 American FDA-approved active ingredients ensuring the most effective protection:
Titanium Dioxide (Physical protection - UVA & UVB filter) Zinc Oxide (Physical protection - UVA filter) Avobenzone ... also called butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane or "Parsol 1789" (Chemical protection - UVA filter) Helioplex (Not as UVA-protective as Mexoryl, Helioplex is the U.S.'s answer to Mexoryl. You can find this ingredient in Neutrogena sunscreens.)
Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid & Drometrizole Trisiloxane ("MEXORYL SX" & "MEXORYL XL," respectively) - a chemical UVA filter, not yet FDA-approved. These are just two of the active ingredients found in the sunscreens I use every single day, and I will NOT expose my skin to sunlight without it - which means I must order them directly from a pharmacy in Europe. The sunscreens I use contain Mexoryl SX, Mexoryl LX (or Tinosorb, depending on brand), titanium dioxide, Parsol 1789, and sometimes zinc oxide as well - all in one bottle. To top it all off, the levels of these active ingredients are each dramatically more potent than U.S. sunscreens. I highly recommend them. Tinosorb - Another not-yet-FDA-approved chemical active ingredient. This is in Avène sunscreens!
Make sure the active ingredient in a sunscreen you purchase is listed first & foremost in the Active Ingredients list - not last. If you're going to spend the money, you may as well get your money's worth!
Sunscreens I recommend: La Roche Posay Anthelios - Not yet available in the U.S. [Note: I have no intentions of buying/using the new La Roche-Posay Anthélios SX SPF 15 , which made its U.S. debut in the fall of 2006, as the ingredients are nowhere near as potent as the original European Anthélios. It is a step in the right direction; however, this sunscreen has got a long way to go. [I sent L'Oréal/La Roche-Posay this letter in November 2006. No response.] I use (European-only) La Roche Posay Anthélios SPF 40 or 50+ all over the face and body. It amazingly contains both physical - titanium dioxide - and chemical - Avobenzone / MEXORYL XL / MEXORYL SX - sun protection. Unfortunately, this is unheard of for a U.S. sunscreen ... for now. La Roche-Posay Anthélios W Gel SPF 40 - Not yet U.S.-available. I wear this one on gym days since it's not as matte for regular day wear as the La Roche-Posay Anthelios SPF 40 spray I wear otherwise. No white cast with either of these Anthélios sunscreens, though the Anthélios W Gel SPF 40 is quite shiny. For daily wear, Avène Emulsion and BioDerma Photoderm Max Fluide SPF 50 are also great and comparable in protection. I wish the FDA would hurry up and approve both Mexoryl SX and XL as well as Tinosorb already, as this would save so many of us a bundle with ordering them from overseas on the Internet! Until then, the only use I have for an American sunscreen is on my back & legs (I use a 3% Avobenzone Neutrogena SPF 70 spray, which also contains Helioplex.)
A Word About Application: 1.) Shake for 20 seconds before applying. Annoying, but necessary! 2.) A sunscreen's protection takes at least 20-30 minutes to take effect. Please take that into account, and time your applications accordingly - in other words, not as you are running out the door. 3.) How much to apply? A quarter or teaspoon-sized dollop for just the face alone is required. For example, if you're applying just an eighth of a teaspoon of an SPF 45 sunscreen, even one with 2-3% of chemical active ingredient Avobenzone/Parsol 1789, you're actually getting about an SPF of 10 - at the most. Apply another quarter- sized/teaspoon amount to the neck. As for the body: a shotglass-sized amount (at least!) is required to cover everywhere else. 4.) "Waterproof"? "Water-resistant"? No such thing. The second you get out of the water, reapply! 4.) How often to apply even if you stay dry? Every 2 hours, as this is the extent of protection for even the most amazing-ingredient, highest-SPF sunscreen. Since I personally don't want to bother with reapplication, I simply limit my daily sun exposure to well under 2 hours a day. Plus, I have Llumar UVShield in my car.
MY NIGHTTIME SKINCARE REGIME FOR THE NON-SUMMER MONTHS I'm sure you all know to wash every stitch of makeup off your face before going to bed. I use an olive oil- based cleanser in the morning, and Olay Foaming Face Wash, which washes off even eye makeup. My routine outlined below is an anti-aging one, and is quite easy and affordable:
After cleansing, I apply Gly Derm glycolic acid cream to the face, neck, chest, arms/hands a couple of times per week - I always apply all of my actives all over the face and upper body. (Why should the face alone get all the benefits?) The only moisturizers I use are either inexpensive non-synthetic Vitamin E oil (antioxidant d-Alpha Tocopheryl), or AEA-certified, fully-refined Emu Oil. (I don't recommend any particular brands, so long as the oils meet the aforementioned specifications.) As for Retin-A Micro, I alternate this every 2-3 nights - again, only in the non-summer months, since I like to self-tan then! Unfortunately, glycolic acids do not mix with self-tanners unless you are going for the Vitiligo look. I tried that once years ago; fortunately, it was during the weekend!
The important thing is that I do only what my skin can tolerate - and everyone is different. If I feel that actives are beginning to be "too much" (always use your judgment!), I pull back for a day or two and use only sunscreen and the above oils at night.
I do not use eye creams; my daily La Roche-Posay Anthélios SPF or Bioderm Photoderm SPF, SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic (a Vitamin C serum applied every third morning), Retin-A, glycolic acid, & Vitamin E / emu oil are all applied to this area and are therefore all the eye products I need. Another chief reason I decline to use an eye cream is because a few hours after applying even the richest ones, the skin around the eye area feels as though I applied nothing. Come to think of it, this is always the case for face creams, too - yep, even the $130/ounce ones. So, this is where my oils come in; 8 hours later when I wake up the next morning, they're still doing their work. Let's just say I'm even further encouraged to sleep on my back so as to not ruin my pillow!
Note about prescription retinoids: Tretinoin (Retin-A / Renova) is fabulous for stimulating collagen production in the underlying layer of the skin (dermis). Sunlight inactivates retinoids, so make sure to apply these at night. Visit your dermatologist to find the right percentage of Tretinoin is right for you. Note about potent glycolic acids: Using these alternately with prescription retinoids further enhances benefits by encouraging cell turnover and thoroughly exfoliating and smoothing the top layer of the skin (epidermis). It's like having the Marines and Navy working for you at once! No prescription needed, but a strong formula may be necessary to heed truly visible results. Note about SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic: I cannot rave enough about this Vitamin C serum. Not only does it provide an instant glow almost comparable to a light tan (again, I apply it all over!), it offers 8 times the protection your sunscreen provides alone. Not only that, since it cannot be washed or rubbed off after application, one does not need to reapply daily. Lovely!
One very interesting thing I have heard from more than one dermatologist: "I can always tell which side a patient sleeps on the second they walk in the door." Yikes. Imagine making a grimace for 8 hours every night the way you do when you sleep scrunched on one side of your face. So, sleep on your back, ladies! **For those of you who ask: I do not have facials/treatments. While I do have an aesthetician, this is only for sports massage and waxing. Since I am into advanced skin care, I'm no-nonsense and head straight for my derm if I have any concerns.**
SUPPLEMENTS For the skin, in addition to the other vitamins I take daily (detailed in my FAQ), I also include 2,000mg of Vitamin C, as well as 25,000 I.U. of Vitamin A (Beta Carotene), and 1,000 I.U. Vitamin E. I feel it's best to take care of your skin externally and internally with antioxidants! (With Vitamin E, avoid the synthetic dl- Alpha Tocopheryl Acetate form, and instead look for its more-absorbent natural form, d-Alpha Tocopheryl.) Heliocare is also a great product, recommended by many dermatologists.
AVOID PAYING RETAIL WHEN POSSIBLE Any links provided here are to demonstrate a visual - I am not a customer. Aside from prescription retinoids, I get all of my pricey anti-aging actives items from reputable websites. As for my sunscreens? To avoid the notorious Internet price-gouging for them, I order direct from an overseas chemist I visited while overseas. To find rock-bottom prices for skin care products or anything, check Froogle.com.
AVOID BEING RIPPED OFF ONLINE In addition to owning a current copy of the brand's official price list, while in Europe, I notice that a La Roche-Posay sunscreen never retails for more than €18, TOPS. Americans, please arm yourself with this information while choosing an online seller. Many sellers ask for an astounding $40-$60 for an $18.50 bottle of Anthélios sunscreen, using their own overseas shipping expenses as a bogus excuse for their price-gouging. As someone who has shipped heavy items to and from Europe and knows what standard foreign shipping actually costs, I find this practice shameful. La Roche-Posay is high-quality indeed, but it is in fact a drugstore sunscreen - so please, expect it to be priced as such.
Kindly Note: I do not recommend any sellers or vendors for any of my personal product purchases. Also, if a specific brand isn't cited alongside a product I use (e.g., Vitamin E oil), this means there are a plethora of other brands I've found that are just as good. A sunscreen, glycolic acid, retinoid, and Vitamin C serum have got to be extraordinary to get a mention here, as I'm an ingredient and value girl!
* Also, if you are interested, I have a few reviews available on MakeupAlley, one of my favorite websites. Just search for "SugarFreeSheila"!
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